Week 4: Drink and Run

When we arrive at the end of the world it's snowing. A 13 hour bus journey has consumed most of the day and the majorioty of our enthusiasm. After almost a whole month of umm-ing and ahh-ing about whether or not to go, I arrived in Ushuaia. It was dark and wet and after a miserable bus journey I started to wonder whether I had made the right decision. However a new day brought... err... more rain! We managed to see past this and were able to witness what a beautiful setting it was. The mountains meeting the sea was truly dramatic, although we did not really have a clear sunny day until the morning we left. At 13,402km from England, I think this is as far away from home as I am going to make it on this trip

Ushuaia on the morning we left - sun at last!

On our last night in Ushuaia we decided to treat ourselves to a meal out. The obvious choice was of course fish. We each had a huge hunk of Sea Bass, whilst another girl called Laura who joined us had trout. All of our meals were delicious although we opted not to have pudding. In true British style we were one of the first to arrive at the restaurant, and finished just as all the Argentinians were having their starters. We visited the national park which I'm sure is absolutely stunning in the sun. As it was it was just a little eerie in the forest.

Slightly reminiscent of The Neverending Story

I wrote a hilarious (in my humble opinion) David Attenborough style piece about the Germans, however whilst we were in Ushuaia sadly a German girl went missing on the glacier, and as far as we know her body had still not been found when we left. In light of this sad news, I decided to save it for another week. Sometimes I think it can be easy to forget how dangerous adventures can be, and it really puts into perspective how trivial it was that my bag was stolen in Buenos Aires, as much worse things can and do happen.

In more cheerful news, prior to going to Ushuaia we spent a few days in Puerto Natales, where the Torres del Paine national park is, and Jen and I both had our first taste of Chile. We both decided we would rather not do the W trek which is "The" trek to do whilst there. We didn't particularly want to hire equipment or tramp up and down hills in the rain and obliterating wind for 5 days, for the privelage of I-don't-know-how-many pesos. Instead we did a day trek from the town, and a day excursion to the park.

This weeks chapter title "Drink and Run" is named in honour of Diego and Seb, two Chilean guys we met at the hostel/homestay in Puerto Natales who showed us a bit about their customs, and we taught them a bit about ours. (Playing ring of fire with only 4 people is NOT a good idea.) Although the weather in the park was pretty abysmal, we did see some stunning sights. (Through the clouds)

Despite the day getting off to something a rocky start (we woke up ten minutes before we had to leave and stuffed some toast down us) we were more than able to see the funny side of things...

Today we arrived back in Chile, in Punta Arenas, after a return bus journey from Ushuaia which was not nearly so awful as the one on the way there. We are treating ourselves to a flight tomorrow to Puerto Montt, about 2000km, the same flight time as Geneva to Edinburgh, although it is surreal that here it is such a little hop.

Despite my best efforts not to plan ahead too far, this week my friend Lou confirmed her flights to Rio at the beginning of December, which I wasn't planning on reaching until April or May! A slight detour may not be a bad thing as I hope to go through Paraguay to get there, which I don't think I would have done otherwise. If anybody else wants to spend their holiday in South America let me know! I was hoping to do a Spanish course in Bolivia soon after arriving in South America, however my plans keep changing and I am picking it all up very quickly anyway.

Apologies there aren't that many pictures this week - the conditions have not been the best! Fingers crossed for warmer climes this week, as it snowed again today when we arrived in Punta Arenas.

Week 3: A penguin Full Of Wine

Every month in Runner's World magazine, in the first few pages there is a double page spread, a "rave run" somewhere scenic and beautiful in the world. Many months ago this was of Patagonia. I tore the page out and (much to the anguish of my landlord, I am sure) stuck it to my wall. On Thursday, as I slogged up a hill (mountain?) that was like a time loop of the top of Pen-Y-Fan, with a blister bigger than a 50p coin on the heel of each of my feet, and as I fell smack on my bottom on the way back down, I smiled and realised that it didn´t matter and I didn't care one bit because I had finally reached the Patagonia I had been waiting months for.

Glacier Perito Moreno, Argentina

For the last week I have been travelling with a girl called Jen, who is "from Glasgow" in the same way that I am "from London" if anyone who isn´t from the South East asks. It has been really nice to talk to someone and have an actual conversation rather than the continual "Where are you from?" (London, I say to make life easier) "How long are you here for?" (Err... I haven't quite decided yet) and "Where are you going next?" (You tell me.)

El Chaltén is an extremely small town, some 200 or so kilometers or so north of El Calafate, Argentina's answer to Ice Age 3, where one of the world's only remaining advancing glaciers is.

On our last day in El Chaltén there we decided to get up early for the big hike to "Laguna de los Tres" a 25km out and back walk with a pretty serious climb to reach the viewpoint. We stayed at the top, at a height of around 1100m for 45 minutes, with the place totally to ourselves and completely wind free. I don't think there was a better day in all of history for us to have chosen.

Jen and I at the top of the "Laguna de los Tres" hike

 As it is still low season we didn't see another person until 3 hours into the hike, and then as we were coming down everyone else seemed to be on their way up. "I think someone is looking down on us today" Jen said to me as we ate lunch next to the river totally undisturbed. However there was a price to pay. On arriving back in El Calafate before our next leg, we came to a hostel near the bus station, ended up paying 120 Argentinian Pesos - the most I have paid for a hostel so far - for the worst hostel I have stayed in so far. There was no hot water, the only plugs were either right next to the bathroom sink or 2 metres up the wall and there were a seriously noisy bunch of schoolchildren. (Who, after I very politely expressed my desire to bed down for the night, did quieten down a little.)

The day after I published last week's blog, I went scuba diving with sea lion puppies. Oh my goodness. It was amazing.

I'm 99% sure that this is me

Although in my last blog you may have sensed my greif at having my camera stolen, the extent of my annoyance reached even further than I originally expected. I have been 2 weeks without my kindle and it is killing me. The problem is that as so many people now have e-reading devices, there are absolutely no decent bookswaps. I severely hope this situation will change when I return to the north of Argentina. So far I have started a German book called "Am Anfang war der Seitensprung." I got as far as page 20 and realised it was just a very long Mills&Boon type book. On arriving in El Calafate for the second time my hopes were raised as I saw a copy of War and Peace...

..."The Abridged Version"

Finally for those of you thinking "darn it, I only got this far on the promise of a drunk penguin video" I am afraid you may be disappointed. All I have to offer you is a picture of a large caraffe of wine.

This is apparently ("apparently") a traditional wine pouring jug of Patagonia.

This week has been the best so far without a doubt, although time just seems to be flying by with no consideration for my schedule.

A big shout out to Jen's mum Alison for reading my blog! Tune in next week for some adventures in Chile and a guest appearance from David Attenborough.

Week 2: Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life

Which, in this case, includes penguins. Thousands and thousands of penguins. Many of which were having some "alone" time, naturally a spectator sport:

As I was packing to come away, 2 days before arriving in Argentina, I was talking to my Dad and he asked me "What currency do they use in Argentina anyway?" To which I promptly ran to my room to get my South America Lonely Planet.

My Dad looked at me with wide eyes and said "you aren't taking that with you are you?!" I confirmed that I was and he laughed and replied "I’ll give it a week"

What I don't think he expected was that after only a week of being in Argentina (and 2 hours after posting my first blog) someone was going to rob me of my bag, within which sat my unsuspecting Lonely Planet, along with my beloved camera, my wallet and my Kindle, as well as my bus ticket out of Buenos Aires, and sop that I am, my poetry book. Thankfully I had my passport, phone and one debit card on me.

For those who know me pretty well they will know that I am normally pretty savvy, and also that I am normally a victim of crime and abuse. I have broken my record of 2 assaults and a stolen motorbike in three weeks and am now able to boast a mugging and a robbery in under 14 hours.

Why is she being so blase about this?! I hear you cry. Having spent the last 24 hours after it happened in an absolute mess and crying - I hesitate to use the word "crying," I think "liquid drops of rage" is probably more apt - approximately every 14-16 minutes, I realised that as the tears ceased and the pull to get on the first plane home abated, you just have to get over the fact that some people are assholes, and bad things happen to good people. (Do worse things happen to bad people?! Best not dwell on it with my track record.)

Naturally I turned to comfort eating and my friend Pari and I went to an empanada making class, where I made a beautiful food sculpture of one big happy empanada (representing a girl who worked in the hostel and who had cheered me up in the morning) hugging a small unhappy empanada (myself, naturally) I got third prize but I think it may have been out of pity. For your amusement and pleasure:

I gave up on trying to turn it up the right way,

all the options are in Spanish and I can't read them

A cousin of a friend of my mum's kindly put me up for a few nights while I got myself together and replaced some of the more neccesary belongings. Thank you Florencia! We had a pizza night and I went to her Grandma's house for an "asado," a sort of Argentinian BBQ. After the BBQ everyone but me had some "Mate" (pronounced mah-tay). It's a kind of herbal tea, I tried it a few times but didn't like it. Strangely it is passed around the circle in the same manner as one might pass what I believe the kids these days call a "big fat spliff" around a group of friends. Except that the Mate isn't very nice.

Eventually I got to Puerto Madryn and I have seen some serious wildlife here. Yesterday I saw some Right Whales. So called because they were the "Right Whales to hunt" although each testicle of a male weighs HALF A TON. Oh my goodness. And today, penguins. Then we went to Gaiman, a Welsh colony of Patagonia where we had tea and scones which went down a real treat. I saw this plaque in the tearoom which I really liked:

I am not entirely sure where I am going next. Either to "Ushuaia" aka The End Of The World, which is difficult and expensive to get to, or to "El Calafate" where there are a number of glaciers. I am staying in a lovely hostel in Puerto Madryn and tonight we are having another Asado!

To finish this blog post I have a list of this weeks "firsts:"

• My first whole cup of tea. I sort of drank it out of social obligation. It was dire.
• First empanada - an absolute must in Argentina
• The first time I have ever fancied an italian man
• The first time I have used a knife and fork correctly (are you proud of me mum?) Still the wrong way round though.
• Asado. Hopefully the first of many
• One of the girls today almost walked into a penguin. I don't think I will ever see that again in my life.
• First time I have had something valuable stolen. Oh wait... This year? Nope, still not a first.

This list was more interesting when I made it in my head. Sorry! Hope you have enjoyed this week's update. I have practically forgotten the trauma of the robbery. Being British I ought to update you on the weather. It is getting warmer by the day, but I guess if I go south it will just get cold again.Until next time!