Week 13: Don't Wanna Be...

I had decided after my epic journey to Rio to take a slightly unconventional route back to where I wanted to be in Bolivia. In hindsight this may have been a mistake. Some places are off the beaten track for a reason. I flew to Rio Branco, on the border with northern Bolivia and then took a flight from Cobija, across the border, to La Paz. Check it out on a map to see how truly nonsensical this was. 

It was a long and boring journey with a lot of doing nothing in the middle, the only excitement was that I almost missed my connecting flight in Brasilia as I didn't realise the gate had changed and sort of forgot what time my flight was. Next thing I knew I heard "Jenkins" over the tannoy amongst a few Portuguese sounding surnames and managed to find my gate in the nick of time. 

Possibly the most impressive part of my journey was the flight from Cobija to La Paz, as I strolled into the airport like it was a train station, bought a ticket for 40£ (probably a damn sight cheaper than some train tickets) and 15 minutes later was in the air. If anything I felt a little smug. 

About all there is to see in La paz

 La Paz is not the most charming city. I had one day there and spent most of it drinking hot chocolate an reading. I did however enjoy the cathedral in the main square. I decided to make a beeline for the countryside an the next day took a bus to Coroico. I had decided to skip on "death road" as I wasn't really in the mood to spend a day wrecking my wrists and elbows, or die. 

The view from my hostel in the morning

I arrived in Coroico late afternoon and enjoyed the lovely view. For the third night out of four I was in a room by myself, and to make it worse I was the only person in the whole hostel. I did have a great conversation with the owner César in Spanish for an hour or so. It fried my brain and frustrated me that I can't speak it a well as I would like. It was amusing explaining that I prefer British men because they are "more reserved" as I tactfully put it. I.e. they generally keep their leching to theirself, don't try and constantly hold your hand and don't creepily tell you they love you in the street all the time. Anyone who tells me this is just because South Americans are more open about their feelings: I'm sorry, but no. You do not love me and you do not miss me. If you think that will get me into bed you have something to learn. Rant over. 

I treated myself to a mojito (by myself) before bed and hit the sack. 

The next morning I arose early an set off for the waterfalls, which were indeed a very impressive sight. Unfortunately I didn't do any of the other walks as I was leaving that afternoon. I was on a bit of a schedule for Christmas an besides, it gets a bit boring being by yourself for a while. 

Found out how bananas grow...
who saw that one coming?!

I went to La Paz to change bus and dropped in at the hostel I had stayed at to recover an unnamed package which I had accidentally left, and then got the bus to Copacabana. Which, by the way, is the original, from which the beach in Rio took its name. It started tipping it down as I got to the hostel in the evening so I decided to stay in rather than brave the torrential rain. By myself. Again. 

Another beautiful viewon my walk in Coroico

The next morning I took some clothes to be fixed (that's right, I am turning into a real traveller) which I promptly left in the luggage storage room the next day in my hurry to get the bus. Doh. I had a delicious lunch of trout from Lake Titicaca with vegetables(!) chips an rice. I didn't manage to finish it as I have been lacking in appetite the last few days - a combination of heat and lack of company. I took the boat at 1330 to the north of Isla del Sol, where the sun was born in Inca mythology. I took a room with an Estonian lady I had met on the boat and then headed out to see the ruins, which included Aslan's table. 

Perfecting the self selfie... needs must!

  
In the evening I went to dinner with Kirti, the Estonian, who was hoping to catch a glimpse of an Argentinian hottie she had met on the boat. No such luck. However we were joined by Mark, an Irish hottie, so I was happy enough. It was the first time in almost a week I had been able to sit down and have a proper conversation without worrying that my brain was going to start coming out of my ears with the concentration of speaking Spanish. 

I had trout for the second time that day, and we indulged in some surprisingly okay Bolivian wine. We all headed to bed early as there doesn't seem to be a lot to do on the north of the island. 

The next morning I awoke confused, as my phone had change to Peruvian time without telling me. After finally deciding what time it was I started off on the walk to the south of the island. I was lucky as the weather held out - I even managed to get burnt on my face. I had been told various things about how long the walk was but everyone seemed to agree it would take 2.5 hours. 

A village midway along the island

I arrived in the south 2 hours after setting off feeling very pleased with myself and having had some lovely views. I managed to catch the boat back I Copacabana just in the nick of time. On the boat I spoke to the girl of a Bolivian family who were on holiday whose English was very good (although naturally she disagreed). I got back on shore 20 minutes before the next bus to Puno, on the Peruvian side of Lake Titiaca, I decided to go for it but in my hurry I left my towel and the pair of shorts I had just had repaired. Not worth it as the bus only cost £3 and the towel and shorts probably cost upward of £30 and the repairs £5. 

In all this rushing around it seems to be becoming a worryingly regular occurrence to leave things behind. I am looking forward to resting for a few days for Christmas and collecting my thoughts (and belongings). 

Now that I am back on the "Gringo Trail" it is already becoming easier to meet people and hopefully the next few days will have adventure and good company in store, before arriving in Cusco for Christmas. 

A panoramic from my walk on the Isla del Sol